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22 Apr 2015
19 Apr 2015
11 Jul 2014
Sew South Africa: A pincushion tutorial
WARNING: Photo-heavy post!
This is a tutorial I’ve put together specifically for people
with very basic sewing skills. So if you
are a proficient sewer, you’ll probably be very bored.
First, the back story:
In the week before Mother’s Day I had a very hard time,
seeing that it was the first Mother’s Day without my mom. So I was sort of wandering up and down my
house, aimless-like. In my fabric stash,
I found a few scraps that my mom had given me many years ago. What she had intended for me to do with it, I
don’t know, it was literally small scraps left over from a blouse she had made
for herself. Sweet co-ordinating floral
prints. Well, I’m one of those people
who tend to stick my sewing needle into the arm of the couch, then forget about
it *blush*. Drives my husband
insane! So what better way to solve two
problems (three, actually) than to make a pincushion with the scraps my mom had
given me. I made this:
The tiny bit of lace was also folded up inside the scraps,
literally just that tiny piece – what did
she want me to do with it? The little
blue button is one I found in my favourite antique shop. I wish the blue square of fabric was a bit
more of a pastel blue, but it’s what I had.
I loved it so much, I made more pincushions out of scraps.
So, would you like to make a pincushion for yourself, or as
a sweet gift for a sewing friend?
First you need to draw a paper pattern. Do use something that has a 90° angle like
this triangle out of a geometry set.
My square is exactly 7 x 7cm. The finished square will be 5cm, because we
have a 1cm seam allowance.
My original scraps of fabric wasn’t long enough for one long
strip, so I divided it in two, that’s for the part that goes around the
squares, the sides of the pincushion.
Exactly 7 x 22cm rectangle.
Now what scraps are lying around? I have these floral prints. All of them just tiny pieces left over.
Now the interfacing.
I stuff leftover bits of interfacing into a little storage basket – I’m
frugal like that.
Now trace around the pattern pieces onto the interfacing.
In South Africa, we cannot buy interfacing by brand name, as
you would have noticed sewing bloggers from overseas can do. This one is a light-weight, woven, iron-on
interfacing. Now cut out the interfacing
pieces, taking care to make straight cuts.
You will note that there is another type of interfacing there. This other one is a non-woven, iron-on interfacing,
also light-weight. There’s two different
interfacings, because I’m using scraps, it’s actually a better idea to use the
same interfacing throughout your projects.
Now iron the interfacing to the back of the fabric
scraps. You can tell which side of the
interfacing has the heat activated glue by looking at it. The woven one has little bumps on, and the
non-woven will have a shiny side. Make
sure the glue side is down on the wrong side of your fabric. Your iron should be set at a medium
heat. Put the iron down on the
interfacing, lift up the iron, set it down, do not slide the iron around like
you would with normal ironing, the interfacing will warp and distort. This is pressing. You will find this referenced to often in sewing. There is a reason for it, it’s a good idea to
follow the instructions.
Now cut out your pieces carefully.
Normally I would not go this route of ironing interfacing to
fabric and then cutting it out, it’s very wasteful. Normally I would cut the pattern pieces out
of the interfacing and the fabric and then press them together.
Now let’s choose how to embellish our pin-cushion.
I have found these printed cotton-tapes all over the place
these days. The gift-wrap shop, and even
those plastic-container shops seem to carry them (this is Sew South Africa,
overseas readers might not “get” all of the references).
You can cut little “pictures” off the tape -
like the one I used here.
Make a clean, clear cut and immediately apply something that
will stop fraying. I personally prefer
this “Fray Stoppa” brand. (No, I don’t get paid to say that)
I’ve tried a number of other brands, but this
one dries very clear, not even vaguely shiny as some others do. Now, be careful, this is cotton tape, the ends WILL NOT melt the way synthetic ribbon
does. DO NOT TRY TO MELT THE ENDS!!
So, back to our pincushion.
Decide on how you want to lay out your squares. I’ve got some lace, cotton tape pictures……maybe
add a button?
Yes, this is my button tin, and yes, I know it’s almost
impossible to find anything and yes, I know I should sort it.
Now that I’ve decided what to embellish my pincushion with,
let’s start by pinning the blocks together two-by-two and one of the short ends
of the side piece.
When one is sewing different colours, or patches together
like this, one should use a thread that matches the darkest colour. In this case I have three dark colours:
burgundy, dark blue and chocolate brown.
I’m going with the burgundy, as it matches the buttons I chose.
On your sewing machine, you will note several lines next to
the foot, these are seam-guide lines.
Our seam allowance for this project is 1cm, which is the line closest to
the foot. A good habit to develop when
starting to sew, is to keep your eye on the line at the beginning of the foot, not
- I repeat NOT, next to the needle. This
will stand you in good stead when you start to sew curves.
Put your first piece under the foot, lower the foot. Now hold the thread ends away with one hand –
it stops your machine from “sucking in” these thread ends, which will result in
knots and might jam your machine. The
other hand should guide the fabric.
Sew
three stitches, press your backstitch button and sew those three stitches back
again. This will ensure that your stitches
do not pull out later. Sew up to a pin,
pull out the pin, sew. Do not try to be
quick by sewing over the pins. You will
at best bend the pin or at worst break your needle. A flying piece of broken needle can make a
nasty gash in your face – I wear glasses so I was protected the one time it did
happen to me. Listen to the advice: Do.
Not. Sew. Over. The pin!
When you get to the end, backstitch again. Now lift up your presser foot, pull a bit so
that a tiny bit of thread comes out, place the next piece and sew,
backstitching as before. Sew all of the
pieces, including the side piece like this.
Congratulations! You have just “chain-pieced”
(see how much you’re learning?)
Now take those pieces and snip off the threads. This method also saves a lot of thread
(frugal!).
Now to the ironing board.
First iron the pieces as is.
This is something I learned from the incomparable Bari J. Ackerman. It makes one heck of a difference to the
neatness of seams. Try it and thank her
later!
Now you want to press the seams open. First iron one piece to one side.
Now take the piece that will be its mate and
press that seam to the OTHER side – you’ll see why in a minute.
The long side piece you want to press open.
Iron all pieces on the front as well.
Now take your matey pieces and butt the seams together. See how nice they fit if the seams are
pressed to opposite sides?
It also helps
to prevent a thick, bulky seam under your sewing machine foot. Pin neatly and sew as before, using that 1cm
line as your guide.
Now back to the ironing board, press the seams you just
sewed open after pressing as sewn.
You will see here that you now have a lot of layers of
fabric together in the centre.
This is what those small scissors are for.
Neatly snip a bit of the corner away here.
Do not snip into your stitching. You can trim more of the seam allowance if you want, I prefer not to, as the 1cm seam allowance is small enough in my opinion.
See how nice and neat those four corners meet in the
middle? Now aren’t you glad you pressed
those seams to opposite sides!
Now here’s the part that prolific sewers are going to
snigger at. I’ve been sewing for about
30 years, and I still do this in this particular way. It’s what works for me.
Take your squares and make 1cm mark at each and every corner
with a water soluble pen, or even with your pencil since no-one is going to see
it anyway.
Now pin the top to the side,
matching the middle seam of the top with the side’s seam.
Pin.
I pin the bottom piece too at this point, you might prefer
to do this separately.
Now you are going to start sewing at the mark you made – NOT
at the edge. When you backstitch, do it
slowly so that you don’t go over the mark.
Sew to the end – only UP TO the mark and backstitch, again only going up
to the mark.
Now you want to iron those seams again. First flat as sewn, then toward the side
piece, iron on the front as well.
At this point I prefer to add my embellishments. You could do this before sewing the side on,
I prefer to do it now, as I then have a better idea how everything will look
together. Also, if you want to use heavy
or bulky embellishments, rather leave them till later, as they will make the
turning inside-out part almost impossible.
I’m going to sew the lace down first, so the cotton tape tag’s
end will have to be able to lift up.
At my sewing machine I now change to white thread and sew
down the lace on both edges.
Now I change to a cream coloured thread to match the cotton
tape,
set my machine to a zig-zag stitch
and sew the little tag down.
Here now we have the beginning and the end threads on top of
our pincushion.
Since they are right next to each other, I can thread both of them together through hand-sewing needle and take the threads to the back.
Now what I do to secure these threads is to knot them together twice with the thread ends that are at the back and only then do I snip them shorter.
You can now also trim any lace/ribbon etc. from the edges.
Now we will turn corners.
Fold back the square’s edge.
Make
a 45 °snip into the side piece with those tiny scissors up to about 1mm away
from the stitching.
Take care not to snip the stitches.
Now you can turn the corner with great ease, the edges will match beautifully.
I prefer to now pin all the sides, top and
bottom at this point, snipping those corners as I go, you might want to do them
separately.
And sew as before, starting
at the mark and ending at the mark.
Now
look, if you put in your pins this way, you can see them from either side.
As I did here, to make sure my edges matched
nicely, I pinned on the side piece’s side and am sewing on the top piece’s
side, but I can still see the pins and pull them out before I get to them.
Again we are going to iron the seams as sewn and then we
want to turn the thing inside-out so that we can iron on the right side
too. Now see the corners?
They are going to bunch up and be bulky when
you turn the pincushion out. Carefully
snip those corners away, taking great care not to snip your stitches.
If you have one of these pointy tools, use it to gently poke
out your corners, otherwise use the back end of an artist’s paintbrush or a thick,
blunt knitting needle. Be careful, don’t
poke too hard, or you’ll poke a hole in your fabric.
Now fold the seams and press them gingerly.
Now the last side. First turn the thing inside-out again. Snip the side piece again as you did before,
pin from the corner.
Now when you get to the middle, fold back the seam allowance. The middle seam of the top and bottom pieces will be a great guide to make that seam nice and neat. Now sew exactly as before, going right across the folded-back seam allowances.
Iron.
Snip corners.
Now you have a gap in the side piece. You can turn the whole thing through this
gap. Be patient, it will go through.
At this point you can sew on heavier embellishments by hand
and through the gap.
Stuff your pincushion.
Since we do not have a “Jo-Anne’s”, “Michael’s” or “Target”
stores in South Africa, you will have to purchase your stuffing at your local
fabric store. You can purchase bags of “poly-fill”
(No, not Polyfilla, silly!) or toy stuffing there. There are a few craft stores who carry
toy-filling as well, but they are few and far between. You can tear up some batting if you
want. Or maybe use the insides of an old
pillow or even scraps of fabric if you have enough. I know that “emery sand” is actually ideal
for filling a pincushion with – good luck finding any! I’ve also read somewhere that apparently one
can purchase ground walnut shells at the pet stores (used for lizards and
such), which is also good for filling pincushions. Erm…yeah…not in this country.
Now be careful not to over stuff your little cushion if you’re
going to put a button at the top and bottom, as this will make it really hard
to squish it down.
At this point, take a moment to admire those perfect corners you've made.
Now it’s time to close the gap. Thread a needle and knot the ends. Push the needle riiight up into the corner. It takes a bit of fiddling, but you can do
it!
Now do a ladder stitch.
Don’t know how?
Make a small stitch right in the fold of the one lip.
Pull up
the tread and make a small stitch a little back from where you came out in the
opposite lip.
The stitches literally make
a little “ladder”. Make sure you pull
the stitches tight, but not too tight, as this will pucker up your seam.
When you get to the last stitch, loop the needle back through
the stitch before you pull it tight, making a figure 8 with the loop, now when
you pull up, the thread will make a tiny knot.
Push the needle into the pincushion, coming out any random place and
snip the thread. This will in effect “bury”
the end inside the pincushion.
Neat seam!
Now for the button.
Use a long darning needle. Don’t
use an upholstery needle, they are too thick and will destroy your
pincushion.
Take a double piece of
thread, knot the ends, you will have four threads.
Now push the needle just off the centre in the bottom of the
pincushion and poke the front through the top, squishing the cushion down to
achieve this best.
Now thread it through
the back of your top button. Squish down on the cushion, poke the needle through the other hole of the button, this time from the top.
Poke the end to the bottom
and sew the bottom button in the same way.
You will need to squish down hard on the cushion to find the top button’s
holes again, be patient.
Sew it two or
three times. This isn’t a heavy-duty
thing, so we’re not going to need to sew it so many times. Just make sure you pull the thread tight if
you want that squished-in look. Now at
the back/bottom, come up under the button, not through a hole, pull up the thread. Hold the thread coming out in one hand and
the needle in the other, loop it once around the button, pulling tight, now do
it again, except this time, put the needle through the loop before pulling
tight, effectively making a knot again.
Now
bury the thread end inside the cushion again as you did with the side seam.
Whew. Done!
Now isn’t that just the prettiest thing!
If you do make one using this tutorial, I would love to
see. Please do post a picture on my
Facebook page!!
But if you don’t feel like making one, these pincushions are
all for sale in my shop at R80-00 each.
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